Dress codes: how the laws of fashion made history

Historical milestones and important dress codes

Introduction

Part one: Status symbols

Chapter one: Encoding status. Concerning the excessive display of trunk hose, crowns, ruffled collars, velvet, and crimson silk

Chapter two: Self-fashioning. Regarding togas, gowns, robes, and tailored clothing

Chapter three: Signs of faith. On the matter of dresses with indulgently long trains, earrings and other vanities, and on the habits of women religious

inspired by Christian Dior

Chapter four: Sex symbols. On the subject of plate armor and associated undergarments, masks, and costumes

Part two: From opulence to elegance

Chapter five: The great masculine renunciation. On the frock coat, tartan and kilt, civilian uniforms, and powdered wigs, both large and modest

Chapter six: Style and status. The importance of the well-dressed man's basic black suit and the elegant woman's eight daily toilettes; the prevalence of silk and velvet waistcoats and the art of the perfectly tied cravat

Chapter seven: Sex and simplicity. The merits of tailored coats, whaleboned corsets, full skirts and petticoats, and neoclassical gowns

Chapter eight: The "rational dress" movement. The inconveniences of bloomers, tight-laced corsets, starched collared shirts, and suits with short trousers

Chapter nine: Flapper feminism. The scandal of drop-waisted shifts, bobbed hair, Cupid's bow lips, dancing flats, Bakelite earrings, and the Symington side lacer

Part three: Power dressing

Chapter ten: Slaves to fashion? The allure and danger of dressing above one's condition in pumps with silver buckles, a hat cocked in the Macaroni fashion, or a Jack Johnson plaid suit

Chapter eleven: From rags to resistance. Seen on the scene: Zoot suits, cotillion gowns, pressed hair, and Sunday best; Afros and overalls, Dashikis, black turtlenecks, and black leather coats

Chapter twelve: Sagging and subordination. Represent the race! Don't wear sagging pants, gang colors, hoodie sweatshirts, or decorative orthodontic devices (aka Grillz)

Part four: Politics and personality

Chapter thirteen: How to dress like a woman. Your personal best: teased, curled, or styled hair, lipstick, foundation, eyeliner, blush, bunny ears and satin maillot, high heels. Overdoing it: bared clavicles, yoga pants, miniskirts, "smart" jeans. In re. ladies in the law: skirts, nylons, makeup, nothing low-cut, a feminized morning suit

Chapter fourteen: Recoding gender. Clothing not belonging to your sex: prom night tuxedoes, blue (or pink) for boys, pink (or blue) for girls, miniskirts, tutus, and tailored suits

Chapter fifteen: Piercing the veil. Outlawed as indecent or condemned as sacrilegious: headscarves, Burkas, burkinis, bikinis, sexy Sheitels, hip Hijabs, and Covergirl makeup

Part five: Retailored expectations

Chapter sixteen: Merit badges. Appropriate for the workplace: Red-soled Louboutins, a 21 Club tie, a blue blazer, the preppy look, red sneakers, a Patagonia vest, a gray or black t-shirt. Inappropriate; designer dresses, high heels, suits

Chapter seventeen: Artifice and appropriation. Outfits for cultural tourism: bleached blonde hair, dreadlocks, hoop earrings, a Cheongsam, a pink polo, an abacost, European luxury tailoring

Conclusion : Decoding dress codes

Epilogue : Dress codes stripped bare.

Historical milestones and important dress codes

Part one : Status symbols. Encoding status

Self-fashioning

Signs of faith

Sex symbols

Part two : From opulence to elegance. The great masculine renunciation

Style and status

Sex and simplicity

The "rational dress" movement

Flapper feminism

Part three : Power dressing. Slaves to fashion?

From rags to resistance

Sagging and subordination

Part four : Politics and personality. How to dress like a woman

Recoding gender

Piercing the veil

Part five : Retailored expectations. Merit badges

Artifice and appropriation

Conclusion : Decoding dress codes

Epilogue : Dress codes stripped bare.